Indian and Bangladeshi food south of the river, but with as good a reputation as anything Brick Lane could offer London, can be found at Jaflong, along Dulwich’s Lordship Lane. Named for a beautiful spot of tea gardens and rolling hills in Bangladesh, Jaflong takes inspiration from the hinterlands of south Asia, where the rivers run down from the Himalayas into the Indian Ocean and wild animals roam the forests.
Starting an Indian and Bangladeshi feast at Jaflong should be a simple affair, taking a seat at this Lordship Lane restaurant and turning to the list of sundries and appetisers. But just as the source of the languid Jaflong river is far up in the impassable mountains, the beginning is where the delicious trouble of choosing has its origin – what to eat? We go for patra, avari leaves layered with a spicy chickpea paste, steamed, sliced, and deep-fried. The mains are a smorgasbord of tandoori, balti, and biryani dishes, and so continues your terribly indulgent trek through the superb offering at this restaurant in London’s Dulwich.
Down Lordship Lane, traditional favourites rub shoulders with Jaflong’s specialties – perennially popular among those Dulwich locals or fans in Greater London. Chicken murgh makhani, Bengali fish jalfrezi, shugati masala seasoned with coconut and white poppy seeds, and the super-spicy naga are fantastically good. If you’re having trouble choosing, why not share the burden with friends and family and go for one of Jaflong’s thalis, carnivorous or vegetarian platters.